BEHIND THE DESIGN: THE SHOWSTOPPERS
For over a decade, we’ve been inspired by D. Matt Smith’s incredible vintage archive in New York – a treasure trove of fashion, glamour and unapologetic self-expression. Now, we’re bringing that inspiration to life in a new partywear collection, reimagining vintage styles handpicked by Matt with a fresh River Island spin. In the spotlight: dancefloor-ready dresses, statement sequins and high-shine metallics that catch the light from every angle.
To celebrate the launch, we sat down with Matt to discuss everything from vintage clothing to what makes the ultimate party.
Where does your love of vintage clothing come from?
I’ve always been obsessed with beautiful clothes, particularly the glamour of Old Hollywood, vibrant colours and the extraordinary details that make a garment special. Vintage is an endless source of inspiration for me, from the craftsmanship to the cultural moment that shaped a piece. What I love most is seeing how those original ideas can be reinterpreted and given a new life. Great design doesn’t stand still; it continues to evolve and inspire long after its time.
How did you get into creating your own archive?
My archive actually began in the real Y2K era! After working in trend forecasting, I recognised a gap in the market for tangible archival pieces that designers could reference to inform both design and production. It was a relatively niche part of the industry at the time, and I saw an opportunity to make vintage references more accessible and relevant to the design process. What began as a passion for sourcing exceptional garments grew into my own business. I suppose it was only a matter of time before I became the archivist and boss!
Is there a particular era of fashion you always find yourself drawn back to?
I find myself drawn back to the 1970s, a decade with such a distinctive sense of glamour and individuality. It was a fascinating period of cultural change, and you could really see that reflected in the fashion, from fluid silhouettes and bold prints to incredible textures and statement details. I love the freedom and confidence of the way people dressed during that era, and how its influence continues to resonate in fashion today. I must add: I love them all so this was a tough!
How did you choose the vintage styles that inspired this collection?
It always starts with understanding the brand’s DNA and what resonates with its customer. For The Showstoppers, I was drawn to playful confidence of the Y2K era, particularly the silhouettes, proportions and movement that made it so distinctive. I looked to my archive for inspiration across many decades, from necklines to interesting hems and flattering shapes, then considered how would these be reinterpreted for River Island today. I wanted the collection to capture that sense of fun, while feeling fresh, wearable and full of personality.
What was it like working with River Island on this collection?
Having worked with the brand for a decade, it was truly an honour to be part of such an important collection. I’m incredibly grateful for the opportunity to work directly with the design team to select pieces that felt distinctive and special. Collaborating with the wider teams was equally rewarding, and I really appreciated the creativity, care and enthusiasm everyone brought to the process. It was a genuinely special experience to be part of.
What’s your favourite piece from the collection?
I’d go for the halter-neck little black dress with the asymmetric hem. It’s a fun statement piece that feels timeless but has a modern edge. And who doesn’t love a ruffle?! It has that unmistakable party feeling, and I think it works beautifully on so many different people. More is always more, you know!
What’s the most glamorous party you’ve ever been to?
Many years ago, while in Paris for work, a friend invited me at the last minute to a fashion party at Espace Pierre Cardin. It was filled with incredibly creative, effortlessly cool people, and the looks were wonderfully over the top. Think club kids meets haute couture! The guest list was a real who’s who of the Paris fashion scene. What made it so glamorous wasn’t just the fashion, but the energy, individuality and creativity in the room. The night stayed with me for more reasons than one. The connections I made helped open doors for my business in the Parisian market. A little proof that you never know where a last-minute invitation might lead!
If you could throw the ultimate party, who would be on the guest list?
Grace Jones, Vivienne Westwood, Dolly Parton (I’m Southern, after all!), and André Leon Talley, for starters. I’d want a mix of people with incredible personal style, strong opinions and absolutely no fear of standing out. I imagine the conversations would be as fabulous as the outfits, with plenty of stories, great music and a little mischief. And, of course, the soundtrack would have to be just as iconic as the guest list.
What’s one piece you think everyone should have in their party wardrobe?
Everyone needs that one incredible party dress that makes them feel like the best version of themselves. Something with a little drama – or a lot of drama – a sense of glamour and a personality of its own. The kind of dress that doesn’t just get worn but makes an entrance.
What do you think makes an outfit truly unforgettable?
I think the most unforgettable outfits have a real point of view. It’s about mixing eras, textures and silhouettes in a way that feels unexpected but effortless. Often, it’s one detail that makes a look or great vintage piece or an unusual accessory. The best outfits are the ones that feel like nobody else could have worn them quite the same way.
